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Improve Energy Efficiency

Energy efficiency accentuates the positive attributes of energy (the services it provides) and diminishes the negative aspects (the pollution and financial costs) associated with producing and delivering energy.

This section gives advice on ways you can make your home more energy efficient, helping both the environment and your finances.

The key to making big savings on your home energy bills is to view your home as a living energy system with individual parts that affect each other.

  • Living Energy System

For example, if you install energy efficient double glazed windows and loft insulation, when it's time to replace your boiler and heating system, you may be able to manage with a smaller one that costs less, because the windows and walls will retain the heated air inside better than a home without efficient windows and insulation. And because heating makes up the majority of your energy bills, you'll save the most money by reducing your heating needs.

Applying energy saving improvements in your home will not only make your home more comfortable, but can also deliver long-term financial rewards. Permanently lower energy bills will more than make up for the higher cost of installing energy efficient appliances and improvements.

There are numerous ways to make changes to your home that will improve the efficiency of your home, save energy and reduce the costs of creating this energy.

Steps you can take can be minor with little or no costs involved. Changes can also be major and involve a large outlay of cash. When considering what changes you can make weigh up the associated costs with the payback period and associated savings.

Loft Insulation

Without proper insulation a lot of the valuable, expensive energy you use to heat your home will be lost through the loft. The recommended depth for mineral wool insulation is 270mm although there are other materials which require different depths. If your loft was insulated a while ago, your insulation may not be deep enough by today's standards - and will be well worth topping up.

Loft insulation is effective for at least 40 years, and it will pay for itself over and over again in that time. The better insulated your home, the less energy you need to keep it warm - the more money you'll save in the long run.

Insulating your loft with loft insulation blankets, often referred to as `quilts', can be a pretty straightforward job for either an installer or a competent `DIY-er'. It needs to be done to a high standard to avoid unnecessary wastage so if you don't feel sufficiently confident that you can do it yourself you should call an installer.

Another type of loft insulation, blown insulation, must be installed by a professional. An installer will typically take just a few hours and may use specialist equipment which blows loose, fire-retardant insulation material into the loft.

Wall Insulation

Around 33% of the heat loss in your home is through the walls. Insulating the walls can reduce heat loss and result in energy savings. There are various ways to do this depending on practicality and price.

Cavity Injection: This is the most cost effective way, provided that your walls have a cavity. The cost of cavity wall injection is approximately €5-8 per square metre. For a typical semi-detached house, this gives a total cost of about €550-€700. With annual fuel savings of €200 to €320, the payback period will be in the region of 4 to 7 years.

Drylining your walls with insulation backed plasterboard is the second least expensive option (costs approximately €50/square metre) but there are drawbacks; You will reduce the floor area of the room you are upgrading and there is the extra inconvenience of additional work to accommodate the drylining, for example, removing radiators and replastering or skimming.

Polystyrene, fibreglass and polyurethane boards are insulation materials that can be used. Polyurethane tends to be more expensive, but its thermal performance is approximately 50% better than polystyrene or fibreglass, so a 25 mm thickness of polyurethane will have roughly the same insulating performance as a 38 mm thickness of polystyrene.

Insulating your external walls is the most expensive option (around €100 to €120 per square metre). It involves fixing insulation materials such as mineral wool or expanded polystyrene slabs to the outer surface of the wall. This insulation is covered with a special cement-based render to provide weather resistance. A steel or fibreglass mesh is embedded in this render to provide strength and impact resistance. A thin layer of insulation may be applied around the edges of window and door openings to minimise thermal bridging.

The advantage of external insulation over internal insulation is that the whole external envelop is protected from heat loss. However, there may be planning restrictions such as altering the exterior appearance of a brick walled house that you need to investigate. If it is a semi-detached property, it can leave an unsightly line along the border with your neighbour’s property.

Windows

It is estimated that poor insulated window frames and single glazed windows are the factors behind heat loss from the home, estimated at around 20%.

It is a common fact that energy efficient replacement windows cuts heat loss and also reduces condensation and noise pollution. Double-glazing cuts heat loss through windows by 50% in comparison to single glazed units.

If cost is an issue then the rooms which lose the most energy should be considered for energy efficient replacement windows first followed by other windows when finances dictate.

However, if you have already double glazed installed, do not replace without first considering properly sealing the windows. This could be an area where the majority of heat loss takes place. Resealing will require you chipping away the plaster exposing the frame. Seal with expanding polystyrene or equivalent. This will help stop heat loss and thermal bridging and is much more cost effective than replacing window units, which will cost €1000’s.

A simple way to reduce heat loss is to line your curtains. Also, closing your curtains at dusk will stop heat escaping through windows.

Hot Water System

Hot water provided by a central heating boiler should have a programmer that allows the water heating to be switched on and off at specified times, independently of the heating system. It should also have a cylinder thermostat that switches the boiler off when the water has reached the required temperature.

Hot water provided by electricity on a standard domestic tariff, with a single immersion heater should have a time switch to limit operating times.

Set your hot water to 60°C. For the majority of homes, setting the cylinder thermostat at 60°C/140°F is fine for bathing and washing, so make sure you are not using extra energy to heat this water every day.

Install a lagging jacket around your tank and insulate all hot water pipework (and cold pipes to prevent freezing), especially in the attic. Both tank and pipe insulation keep your water hotter for longer by reducing the amount of heat that escapes.

A lagging jacket only costs around €20 and pays for itself within months. If purchasing a new tank, make sure it has a factory fitted lagging jacket as these are much more effective.

Heating System

There are various ways to control your heating system, making it more energy efficient.

Check your boiler, if it’s over 15 years old, it’s probably time you replaced it with a new energy efficient one. All modern boiler systems are more energy-efficient and use less fuel. The most efficient boilers are called condensing boilers which use 30-40% less fuel. Hi-efficiency boilers are expensive but much more cost effective in the long run.

However, replacing your old boiler with a new energy-efficient one can save you around a third on your heating bills straight away. You should consider fitting a new energy-efficient condensing boiler if you’re fitting a new kitchen or bathroom, then you can have all the work done at the same time. Condensing boilers can normally be fitted to your heating system and radiators. Get information on the grants available.

Have your boiler serviced at least once a year. By doing this you could improve your overall efficiency by 10% - saving you up to €150 per year.

Turn your thermostat down 1 degree. Turning down the thermostat by 1oC can reduce annual space heating energy consumption by 10%.

The following serves as a guide to ideal room temperatures:

Ideal Room
Temperatures
°C
Lounge21
Dining Room21
Kitchen16
Bedrooms16
Bathroom23
Stairs18

Also, use timers for times when you need the heating system running. For example, have the heating system turn off half an hour before going to bed.

An inexpensive method of reducing heat-loss through external walls is to put reflective surfaces behind your radiators.

Replace open fire with a modern wood burning stove. Stoves can achieve efficiencies of up to 80% compared to only 20-30% for a traditional open fire.

Light Bulbs

Energy Efficient Light Bulbs
Energy saving lightbulbs have always been a bright idea - for your pocket and the environment.

They last about 12 times longer and use up to 80 per cent less electricity than a standard bulb, but produce the same amount of light.

In other words, they can help you to save money and energy, all in one wise purchase. And by saving energy, you'll be helping to fight climate change too.

CFLs can be used in any room but give the biggest savings where lighting is required for longer periods. CFLs should not be used with dimmer switches or light-sensitive or security switches.

Always switch lights off when you leave an empty room and adjust your curtains or blinds to let in as much light as possible during the day.

Appliances

Generally people do not change appliances until they become outdated and breakdown. However, outdated and inefficient appliances are contributing to higher bills right now and the longer you stick with them, the more money you waste.

The initial cost of replacing even the most expensive appliance can be recovered in just 3-6 years through lower energy and the savings will go on long after you've got your money back.

Kitchen Appliances

Washing Machine. Modern washing powders work just as well at lower temperatures, so try and use cooler cycles where possible. Washing full loads will also make each load more economical, or alternatively select the ‘half-load’ or economy programme. The average UK household does 274 loads of washing a year, so the savings really add up!

Kettle. It’s easy to over fill a kettle, but try and only boil the amount of water you need – one cup’s worth is less than you think! Always remember to ensure you boil the minimum amount for the safe use of the kettle – this should be marked on the side of the kettle, but see the manufacturer’s user guide if in doubt.

Fridge. Keep your refrigerator and freezer filled for most economical operation. Less cold air is lost when the door is opened in a filled refrigerator because the food helps retain the cold. Keep fridge away from other heat producing appliances, such as a dishwasher, and direct sunlight. Heat and moisture make the refrigerator work harder.

Dishwasher. Use your dishwasher only for full loads. Be sure your dishwasher is full, but not overloaded when you turn it on. Improper loading can result in poorly cleaned dishes that need to be rewashed.

Let your dishes air dry. A dishwasher uses more energy to dry dishes than to wash them. If your dishwasher doesn't have an automatic air-dry switch, turn off the control knob after the final rinse and prop the door open to let moisture escape.

Some dishwashers are more energy efficient than others because they do not need to heat as much hot water in the appliance. Older models generally use between 36 to 63 litres for each wash cycle, while more modern models typically use between 32 to 45 litres.

If you are buying a new dishwasher check the information on energy consumption which can be found in the user guides provided by some manufacturers. Check the efficiency rating of the dishwasher you intend to purchase before making your final decision.

Bathroom Appliances

Take a shower rather than a bath. Water requires a lot of energy to heat it up, so taking a shower (which typically uses just 20% of the hot water required for a bath), is a great way to reduce energy use and cut CO2 emissions by around 200kg per person.

Always put the plug in your basin or sink. Leaving the hot-water tap running without the plug in is like pouring money down the plughole. Turn taps fully off after you have used them. Repair any dripping taps.

Save water in your cistern. Every time a toilet is flushed, the water has to be purified and pumped round again, all of which wastes a huge amount of water and energy. Placing an object such as a brick in the cistern takes up space, reducing the water needed to fill it and saving up to twice as much water as the average person drinks per year. If purchasing a new toilet, select one with a dual flush.

Home Entertainment Appliances

Appliances left on standby are still using a low level of electricity, so turn them off properly before going to bed could save 50kg of CO2 a year and around 8 per cent on your annual electricity bill.

The new large flat screen TVs can cost nearly three times as much to run as traditional TVs. This can add up to a surprising €60 to a typical household electricity bill every year. Do your research before you buy to make sure you're getting the most energy efficient model.

The latest generation of computer games consoles can draw up to an astonishing 180W of power - the equivalent of having three 60W traditional light bulbs burning. Switch off your games console at the wall when not in use to save money and energy.

Draught Proofing

Draught Proofing is one of the simplest and cheapest ways of making your home more energy-efficient. It can pay for itself in less than a year. You simply fill any gaps where cold air is getting into your home. You can use a variety of products, such as expanding foam, brushes, stick-on strips and caulk and mastic. You can get most of these from DIY stores.

For example, stop draughts and stop heat escaping by filling gaps under skirting boards with mastic sealant and fit nylon brush seals or a spring flap for the letterbox. Seal up any unused open fires and flues. This will reduce heat-loss which can be quite considerable through the chimney.

However, be aware of the following:

  • Vents, airbricks and boiler flues must not be blocked.
  • You must not fit full draught proofing in any room where there is a gas boiler, a gas fire or an open fire. Vents fitted in these rooms are there for your safety – do not block them.
  • Ventilation is important in kitchens and bathrooms. You can fit extractor fans or open windows when you are running hot water or cooking. If you do not ventilate these rooms, condensation could make your home damp and make you ill.
  • If you use bottled-gas or paraffin heaters, do not draught proof any of the windows in your house.
  • You can fit ‘trickle vents’ in the window frame to give a small amount of ventilation. These can be closed to reduce the ventilation.
  • You can draught proof things on the outside of your home, such as windows and doors, the letterbox and keyholes.
  • For doors inside your home, only draught proof toilet or pantry doors if these rooms have fixed vents.

Switching Energy Supplier

This will not have any positive effect on the environment but could save you €100’s on your home energy bills as suppliers have become much more competitive.

It’s simple to compare energy suppliers online and switching is easier than ever. But like any consumer purchase, you should follow a few guidelines before signing on the dotted line. Ask yourself these questions when comparing energy companies:

  1. Are there any hidden charges?
  2. Do the prices quoted include VAT?
  3. Are you eligible for any special offers, incentives or discounts?
  4. What is the supplier's complaints record?
You don't have to switch supplier to make savings. You can make savings if you pay by direct debit and switching to an online account can save you even more.
The following gives indicative costs and associated payback periods for changes and upgrades you can carry out in the home to make it more cost effective.

ActivityCapital CostPayback Period
Replacing Windows with Double Glazed units*€€€Variable
Increase and improve Wall Insulation**€€€Variable
Purchase A or B rated appliances€€€Variable
Attic Insulation€€€★★
Fit a Cylinder Thermostat€€★★
Radiator Thermostats throughout€€★★★
Efficient Heating System vs. Open fire€€★★★★
Install Thermostat to Heating System€€★★
Flourescent Tubes in Kitchen€€★★★
Draught Proof Windows and External Doors★★★★
Draught Proof Hall Door or Letterbox★★★★
Lag Cylinder★★★★
CFL's★★
No Hot water running unnecessarily0★★★★
Shower instead of Bath0★★★★
Use existing appliances correctly0★★★
Turn off electrical equipment when not in use0★★★★
Reduce Thermostat by 1°C0★★★★

* The payback period will depend on a number of factors including type of Glass and Gas Fill

**The payback period will depend on a number of factors including type, thickness and quality of existing insulation and new insulation.

Capital Cost Rating:
RatingCost:
0Nil
€1 - €4
€€€40 - €200
€€€€200 +

Pay Back Periods Rating:
RatingDescription
★★★★Typical Pay-back in less than 6 months
★★★Typical Pay-back in less than 1 year
★★Typical Pay-back in less than 3 years
Typical Pay-back in less than 5 years

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